Western Hognose Snake Care Guide

(Heterodon nasicus)

Western hognose snakes are a terrestrial, burrowing species native to North America. In the wild, their natural diet consists primarily of frogs, toads, salamanders, and small lizards. All western hognose snakes sold at Chappie’s Reptiles & More are fed frozen-thawed mice unless otherwise stated.

Adult western hognose snakes typically reach lengths of up to 3 feet and have an average captive lifespan of 10–25 years with proper care.

Western hognoses are rear-fanged and mildly venomous. Scientific consensus confirms that their venom is not medically significant to humans. When threatened, their primary defense behaviors include hissing, tail rattling, flattening the neck to resemble a cobra, bluff striking, and occasionally playing dead. In the rare event of a bite, the reaction is generally comparable to a bee sting; venom is not a concern unless the individual has an allergy.

Enclosure

A larger enclosure is always recommended, but the minimum size for an adult western hognose is a 40-gallon long enclosure. Because this species is terrestrial, floor space is more important than height.

• Provide at least two hides: one on the warm side and one on the cool side

• Fresh water must be available at all times

• Enrichment such as plants and decor is strongly encouraged

Substrate

Several substrate options are suitable for western hognose snakes. At Chappie’s Reptiles & More, we use aspen bedding as a cost-effective and easy-to-clean option. A 50% topsoil / 50% play sand mix may also be used and allows for the creation of a bioactive enclosure.

Feeding

All western hognose snakes sold by Chappie’s Reptiles & More are fed frozen-thawed mice unless otherwise noted. Prey items should be approximately the same size as the thickest part of the snake’s body.

Temperature

A proper temperature gradient is essential:

• Warm side: 80–85°F

• Cool side: 75–80°F

• Basking spot: 90–95°F

Humidity

Ideal humidity levels range between 30–50%. Consistently higher humidity levels may increase the risk of respiratory infections.

Lighting

While sometimes considered optional for this species, UVB lighting is highly recommended for all reptiles. UVB helps replicate natural sunlight and supports overall health by allowing proper vitamin and nutrient absorption.

• Provide a 12-hour light / 12-hour dark cycle

• No light should be used at night

Ball Python Care Guide

(Python regius)

Ball pythons are a terrestrial species native to central and western Africa. In the wild, their natural diet consists primarily of small mammals and birds. All ball pythons sold at Chappie’s Reptiles & More are fed frozen-thawed rodents unless otherwise stated.

Adult ball pythons typically reach lengths of 3–5 feet, with females generally growing larger than males. With proper care, ball pythons can live 15–30 years in captivity.

Ball pythons are non-venomous and well known for their calm, docile nature, making them one of the most popular pet snakes. When threatened, their first instinct is to curl into a tight ball to protect their head rather than strike.

Enclosure

A larger enclosure is always recommended, but the minimum size for an adult ball python is a 4 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft enclosure. Because ball pythons are primarily terrestrial but will utilize vertical space, both floor area and some height are beneficial.

• Provide at least two secure hides: one on the warm side and one on the cool side

• Fresh water must be available at all times

• Enrichment such as plants, branches, and climbing structures is encouraged

Substrate

Several substrate options are suitable for ball pythons. Common choices include cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a bioactive soil-based mix. Substrate should help retain humidity while remaining mold-resistant and easy to spot clean.

Feeding

All ball pythons sold by Chappie’s Reptiles & More are fed frozen-thawed rodents unless otherwise noted. Prey items should be approximately the same width as the widest part of the snake’s body.

Temperature

A proper temperature gradient is essential:

• Warm side: 85–90°F

• Cool side: 75–80°F

• Basking surface: 92°F

Air temperature should never exceed 95°F

Humidity

Ideal humidity levels range between 60–80%. Proper humidity is especially important during shedding. You may consider using a humid hide during shedding periods. Low humidity may lead to incomplete sheds, while excessive moisture without ventilation can cause respiratory issues.

Lighting

While ball pythons do not require intense lighting, UVB is highly recommended for overall health and natural behavior. UVB helps replicate natural sunlight and supports vitamin D synthesis.

• Provide a 12-hour light / 12-hour dark cycle

• No light should be used at night

Crested Gecko Care Guide

(Correlophus ciliatus)

Crested geckos are an arboreal species native to New Caledonia. In the wild, their diet consists of fruit, nectar, and insects. All crested geckos sold at Chappie’s Reptiles & More are established on a commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) unless otherwise stated.

Adult crested geckos typically reach 5–8 inches in total length, including the tail. With proper care, they can live an average of 15–20 years in captivity.

Crested geckos are non-venomous and generally calm but startle easily. When startled, they may jump or drop their tail as a defense mechanism. Unlike some gecko species, crested geckos do not regenerate their tails once dropped.

Enclosure

A larger enclosure is always recommended, but the minimum size for an adult crested gecko is an 18” x 18” x 24” enclosure. If you choose to give your gecko a larger enclosure, consider providing food in multiple places as they can struggle to find it in a large area. Because crested geckos are arboreal, vertical space is more important than floor space.

• Provide multiple climbing branches, vines, and foliage

• At least one hide or dense foliage for security

Substrate

Several substrate options are suitable for crested geckos. The most common substrate is a bioactive soil-based mix. Bioactive setups help maintain humidity and allow for a more natural enclosure.

Feeding

Crested geckos should be fed a commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) as their primary food source. These diets provide complete and balanced nutrition.

• CGD should be offered everyday as juveniles and every 2-3 days as adults

• Calcium supplements may be added to their food to prevent metabolic bone disease (MBD), if providing UVB, use calcium powder without D3.

• Insects such as crickets or roaches may be offered occasionally as enrichment

• All insects should be appropriately sized and gut-loaded

• Crested geckos with drink water droplets off of surfaces after misting, no need to provide a water bowl

Temperature

Crested geckos thrive at moderate temperatures:

• Daytime ambient temperature: 70–75°F

• Nighttime temperature: 68–72°F

• Basking temperature: 80-82°F

Temperatures above 82°F can cause stress and should be avoided.

Humidity

Ideal humidity levels range between 60–80%. Enclosures should be misted regularly to maintain humidity and provide drinking droplets. Allow humidity to drop slightly to 40-50% between mistings to prevent mold growth.

Lighting

Crested geckos do not require intense lighting, but low-level UVB is highly recommended for overall health and natural behavior.

• Provide a 12-hour light / 12-hour dark cycle

• No lighting should be used at night

Bearded Dragon Care Guide

(Pogona vitticeps)

Bearded dragons are a terrestrial, semi-arboreal species native to Australia. In the wild, their diet consists of insects, vegetation, and flowers.

Adult bearded dragons typically reach 18–24 inches in length. With proper care, they can live 10–15 years in captivity.

Bearded dragons are non-venomous and well known for their friendly, docile temperament. When threatened, they may puff out their beard, darken in color, and display head-bobbing behavior as a form of communication or defense.

Enclosure

A larger enclosure is always recommended, but the minimum size for an adult bearded dragon is a 4 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft enclosure. Because bearded dragons are active and require ample space, both floor area and basking height are important.

• Provide a basking platform or branch

• At least one hide on the cool side

• Fresh water should be available at all times

• Enrichment such as rocks, branches, and decor is encouraged

Substrate

Several substrate options are suitable for bearded dragons. Recommended options include ReptiSand and the Terra Sahara bioactive substrate kit. Some non-loose substrate options include: tile, non-adhesive shelf liner, or paper towels for ease of cleaning. A bioactive soil-based mix may also be used for experienced keepers. Loose substrates should be chosen carefully to minimize impaction risk.

Never use calcium sand as they will eat it and become impacted

Feeding

Bearded dragons require a diet that changes with age:

• Juveniles: Primarily insects with some vegetables

• Adults: Primarily vegetables with insects offered less frequently

• All food should be dusted with calcium powder:

  • Calcium with D3 3x a week

  • Calcium without D3 for all other meals

• Food should be dusted with a multivitamin powder 1-2x a week

Insects such as crickets, dubia roaches, or black soldier fly larvae should be appropriately sized and gut-loaded. Fresh vegetables should be offered daily and may include leafy greens such as collard greens, mustard greens, and turnip greens.

Temperature

A proper temperature gradient is essential:

• Basking spot: 100–110°F (juveniles may require the higher end)

• Warm side: 90–95°F

• Cool side: 75–85°F

Humidity

Ideal humidity levels range between 30–60%. Excessive humidity can increase the risk of respiratory infections.

Lighting

UVB lighting is essential for bearded dragons. Proper UVB exposure allows calcium absorption and helps prevent metabolic bone disease (MBD).

• Use a high-output linear UVB bulb (such as T5 HO), follow manufacturer instruction on how often to replace bulbs

• Provide a 12–14 hour light cycle

• No lighting should be used at night